Collar



Jully 11, 1939- A. M. PANETTIERI C OLLAR Filed Feb. 24, 1959 INVENTOR M- FNETTIERI ATTORNEY Patented July 11, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT ol-Flce 6 Claims.

The present invention relates to an improvement in collars, particularly of the fold down type comprising a band portion and a flap portion, and is a continuation in part of my application for Collar, Ser. No. 228,295, filed Sept. 3, 1938. The invention is especially concerned with collars of the so-called fused type in which a stiiiening inter-liner is adhered or cemented between the outer layers of the collar, such interliner being of one of the well-known types, in which cellulose acetate or other suitable substance is incorporated, and which is subjected to the action of a reagent, or to the application of heat, to cause such inter-liner to adhere to adjacent layers of the collar.

In collar constructions heretofore in use employing a fused type inter-liner considerable difficulty has been experienced i n maintaining the proper fold line, in securing a natural and comfortable t of the collar, and in preventing breaking and cracking at the fold. Also the manufacture of such collars has been diiiicult due to the complication of stitching of various portions together, and the turning and finishing of the collar after such stitching.

It is an object of the present invention to obviate these difficulties, and to this end it is proposed, in the illustrated embodiment of the invention, to provide a stiiening inter-liner within the band portion of the collar, and a stiening binding folded about its upper edge, and which is adapted to be securedv to one of the outer layers of the collar by a line of stitching extending along such upper edge. 'I'his stiifening inter-liner within the band is not formed of a fuse type material, but is formed of a relatively coarse stiff lining material which will give suf-A flcient body to the band of the collar while allowing it to remain relatively flexible and neck conforming. This flexibility, as will hereinafter more fully appear, enables the iiap portion of the collar to be folded down and the collar curved into neck conforming shape without producing kinks or bulges along the fold line. The binding strip along the upper edge of the band lining provides an equalized stiffening reinforcing disposed at both sides of the band lining, which provides a positive fold line secured to one of th outer layers of the collar, so that there can be no shifting of such fold line. Due to the equalized arrangement of the binding at each side of the lining the collar may be curved into neck conforming shape without kinking, as

distinguished for instance from a fold line formed by a folded margin provided upon the upper edge of the band lining.

A further object is to provide the inter-liner of the band with a notched structure in relation to each' of the angle corners between the ap and band portions at the ends of the collar, where the fold of the flap portion terminates, and whereby these portions ofthe collar are rendered extremely tllin and flexible and free from any bulges, with the result that the fold 10 of the flap of the `collar will remain smooth and even, and the ends of the flap will fall in natural lines from the fold. 'I'he notches provided in the band also provide a clearance space within the band into which the seamed edges of the material will extend when the collar is turned.

A further object is to provide a stiffening interliner within the flap portion of the collar which is secured to one of the outer layers by a line of stitching disposed below the line of stitching securing the band lining to the other outer layer, and whereby when the collar is fused the upper portion of the band lining containng the reinforcing binding will be fused al; one side io ine inter-liner and to the outer layer which forms the face of the collar, the other side of the band lining being free from fusing to provide a yieldable blght for the folded flap, and whereby ino nap may be positively folded about the fold line formed by the stiilening binding without any tendency to kink or pucker.

Another object is to provide a collar in which each of the outer layers of the collar is formed from a single piece of material free from any overlap seam along the fold line, so that the thickness at the fold line is reduced, and there is no sharp edge at the fold such as would be produced byv an exposed seam.

A further object is to provide stiifening means incorporated in the end edges of the flap portion which will eifectually maintain these edges in relatively straight lines.

With the above and other objects in view, an embodiment lof the invention is shown in the accompanying drawing, and this embodiment will be hereinafter more fully described with reference thereto, and the invention will be nally pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is an inside plan of one of the outer layers, namely the face forming outer layer, and the stiiening inter-liner of the flap portion secured thereto by a line of stitching, one end of 55 the inter-liner being shown unsecured and tolded back.

Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional view taken along the line 2 2 of Fig. i. Y

Fig. 3 is an inside plan of the other outer layer, namely, the back forming layer, and the interliner of the band portion secured thereto by a line of stitching, one end of the inter-liner being shown unsecured and folded back.

Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional View taken along the line i-d of Fig.- 3.

Fig. 5 is a plan view showing the face and bach forming sections of the collar together with the inter-liners stitched together in wrong side out arrangement, one end of the collar being shown turned right side out.

Fig. 6 is a detail plan view showing the stidening member employed for stiffening the end of the ap portion.

Fig. 'l is a side elevation of one end portion oi' the completed collar after the seam has been turned, as shown in Fig. 5, with iinishing stitches applied and the flap inter-linerfused.

Fig. 8 is a side elevation of the completed collar shown in Fig. 7 with the apiolded down.

Fig. 9 is a vertical sectional View, on an enlarged scale, taken along the line ii-d 'of Fig. 5, and showing the collar before turning.

Fig. 10 is a vertical sectional view, taken along the line id-ld of Fig. 5, and showing-the turned collar. i

Fig. il is a vertical sectional view, taken along the line l-il of Fig. 7, showing the completed fused collar, the dot-and-dash lines showing the manner in which the flap is folded.

Fig. 12 is a transverse sectional view, taken along the line i2-i2 of Fig. 5, and showing the end of the iiap before turning.

Fig. 13 is a transverse sectional View, taken along the line i3- l1i of Fig. '7, and showing the end of the flap after turning and completion of the collar.

Fig. 1d is a transverse sectional view taken along the line ill-ill of Fig. 7, showing the corner structure of the end of the fold line.

Similar reference characters indicate corre sponding parts throughout thev several iigures oi" the drawing.

Referring to the drawing the outer layers ill and l i which form the face and back surfaces of the finished collar, and which are made from any suitable shirt or collar material, each comprise a one-piece band and flap portion, the upper and lower edges of these layers being suitably curved to provide the necessary fit, and the ends of the flap portions being cut along the straight lines y'l2 and li3 respectively, and the ends ofthe band portions being cut alongl the projecting and convexly curved linesid and lrespectively.

The inter-liner I6 for the iiap portion of the collarvmay be constructed of any suitable lining material. lars it will be of a suitable processingmaterial, that is, it will be woven with threads of celanese or cellulose acetate, or any other welLknown materials, which when subjected to a processing step, such as treatment with a solvent or application of heat, causes the inter-liner to adhere to the adjacent layers of the collar, and thus provide astiffened wilt-proof structure which does away with the necessity ,for starching.` While the present structure is particularly advantageous In the case of processed or fused colarenoso experienced in the use oi such inter-liners, it will be understood that it is not limitedfto such use.

The inter-liner it corresponds in shape to the flap portion of the outer facing layer id, except that at its lower edge it is extended to provide a marginal portion extending into the band portion for-cooperation with the inter-liner of the band portion, as will-hereinafter more fully appear. The corners oi the inter-liner it are transversely cut, as at il to facilitate turning of the points of the finished collar, as will hereinafter more fully appear. The inter-liner it is secured tothe face forming outer layer i@ by a row ofA lli shaped notch it, the outer edge of which is outwardly spaced from the corner formed between the end edges i3 and it of the outer layer, and the inner edgeof which is inwardly spaced from this corner, to provide an area at each end of the fold line of the collar extending downwardly into the band portion which is free of the lining material it, for a purpose as will hereinafter more fully appear. The upper edge of the band interliner it is provided with a binding strip 2i, of inverted Alil-shape in cross-section, which is engaged about each side of the upper edge and secured by a row of stitching 22,'this binding strip extending at its ends to the inner ends of the notches iii. The inter-liner iii, with the binding strip 2G stitched thereon, is secured to the baci-x forming outer layer il by a line of stitching dit extending adjacent the upper edge of the 'strip 2l. The'lower edges of the inter-liner i9 and the band portion ofthe outer layer li, which edges conform to eachother, are folded upwardly to` ior'ni a hem 2d, which is secured by a line of stitching it.

The face forming outer layer Ml, with its flap inter-liner it secured thereto, and the back forming outer layer il, with its band inter-liner i9 secured thereto, are placed in overlying registering relation, with the outer surfaces of the outer layers id-and il contacting each other, as shown 'nesses along the end edges I3 of the iiap and along the longitudlnaledge fora short distance, the connecting portion between the leg portions, and which is disposed at the point of the flap, being of a single thickness. The assembled portions .are thereupon stitched together by a row of stitching 2 extending adjacent the longitudinal edge of the' flap portions and which also secures the longitudinal leg portions of the members 2G, and by rows of stitching 28 at each end of the collar which extend adjacent the straight edges I2, I3 and the curved edges I4, I5,-these rows of stitching also securing the end leg portions oi" the members 26. The corners between the edges I2, vI3, and Il, I5 are notched out, asv

at '29, the notches extending just short of the stitching 28. These notches facilitate turning the collar at the corners. The collar is turned, as shown at the left hand side of Fig. and in Fig. 10, the stitching 2l and 28 being concealed by the turning. Due to the notching at 29 the edges of the material which are turned in by the turning process lie flat at the corners, and in cooperation with the notches produce relatively thin nonbulging structures at the ends of the fold line, and as shown byvthe sectional view, Fig. 14.

After turning of the collar a finishing line of stitching 3 0 is provided adjacent the longitudinal edge and the end edges of the flap portion, this line of stitching being inwardly of the inturned edges of the iiap portion. The collar is next suitably processed to cause the inter-liner I 6 to fuse with the face and back forming outer layers l0 and il.- 'I'he lower marginal portion of the interliner I6 which extends into the band portion also fuses with the upper portion of the band interliner at one. side, while the otherside of the band inter-liner which is adjacent the band portion of the back forming outer layer Il is not fused and thus remains flexible to provide a yielding bight for the folded down flap of the collar, as shown in dot-and-dash lines in Fig. 11, thus permitting the face forming outer layer I0, which is fused entirely throughout the flap portion and for a short distance into the band portion, to be folded without` resistance from the back forming outer layer. The line of stitching i8 in the finished collar is slightly inwardly oifset through the interposition of the binding strip 2l above this line of stitching, and consequently there are no projecting stitches along the inner neck engaging surface of the collar which might tend to irritate the skin of the wearer.

I have illustrated and described a preferred and satisfactory embodiment of the invention, but it will be obvious that changes may be made therein within the spirit and scope thereof, as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. In a turned collar, a pair of outer layers of fabric, one being a face forming layer andv the other a back forming layer and each comprising a band portion and a. nap portion, the ends of the band portions extending beyond the ends of the ap portions, a stiffening ap inter-liner disposed between said iap portions having a lower marginal portion extending between said band portions, and secured by a line of stitching adjacent its lower longitudinal edge to the band portion of the inturned side of said face forming layer, a stiffening band inter-liner disposed between said band portions and secured by a line of stitching adjacent its upper longitudinal edge to the band portion of the inturned side of said back forming layer, said lower marginal portion of said iiap inter-liner overlapping the upper marginal portion of said band inter-liner at theside of said band inter-liner away from said back forming layer, the upper edge of said band inter-liner constituting an abutment about which the iiap portion of the collar is folded down. l

2. The invention as defined in claim 1, further characterized in that said iiap inter-liner is formed. of fusible material whereby said overlapping portions of said iiap and band inter-liners are unsecured to each other except by fusing.

3. The invention as defined in claim 1, further characterized in that said ap inter-liner is formed of fusible material and said band interliner is formed of non-fusible material, said flap inter-liner being contactingly engaged with the flap portion of said back forming outer layer, and

said non-fusible band inter-liner being interposed H between said overlapping lower marginal portion 0f said flap inter-liner and the band portion of said back forming layer, whereby said back forming layer is fused to said flap inter-liner only in its flap portion and is unfused in its band portion.

4. The invention as defined in claim 1, further characterized by notches in the upper edge of said band inter-liner respectively contiguous to the ends of said flap portion extending downwardly into the band from the fold line having their inner edges inwardly spaced from the stitching lines of the inturned stitched hems at the end edges of the collar and providing an area at each end of the fold line within the band which is free of said band inter-liner. y

5. The invention as defined in claim 1, further characterized by a stiffening strip folded over` the upper edge of said band inter-liner and secured by a line of stitching independent of the line of stitching securing said band inter-liner Yto said back forming layer. i

6. The invention as defined in claim 1, further characterized by notches in the upper edge of said band inter-liner respectively contiguous to the ends of said iiap portion extending downwardly into the band from the fold line having their inner edges inwardly spaced from the stitching lines of the inturned stitched hems at the end edges of the collar and providing an area at each end of the fold line within the band which is free of .said band inter-liner, and a stiffening strip folded over the upper edge of said band inter-liner having its ends terminating contiguous to and at the inner sides of said notches.

.ANGELO M. PANETIIERI. 

